Hier kann man zusätzlich einen Eindruck der Durchschlagskraft von Sprengkörpern erhalten, da einige Teile der Anlage von Bombenkratern durchlöchert sind, die ungeahnte Tiefen erreichen. Die Bombenkrater entstanden, als die Amerikaner 
Wirklich traurig, dass diese heilige Stätte so viele Jahrhunderte überdauert hat, um dann doch noch dem Krieg zum Opfer zu fallen – erinnert von der Zerstörungsgeschichte her ein wenig an die Akropolis in Athen!
Hoi An is a significant part and place in history, having been a trading center between such places as Netherlands, Japan and China centuries ago. It is so historically important that it was recognized by UNESCO as an official world heritage. Today, Hoi An still reflects the “openness” of its culture and influence from other cultures in its architecture, food, and handmade products.
When it comes to handicrafts, the silk lantern is Hoi An’s pride. The streets of Hoi An are filled with silk lanterns decorating almost all kinds of establishments such as houses, gardens, restaurants and shops. Silk lanterns create a particularly festive yet at the same time elegant atmosphere which makes them a popular piece of interior decoration. Moreover, they are affordable, priced between $1-$30.
Silk lanterns are also flexible in design and structure, making them easy to transport. The traditional and famous colors are red, orange, yellow and blue, but they also come in different shapes such as lotus or even a bird cage. White silk lanterns are usually decorated with bamboo leaf imprints, flowers, or Chinese calligraphy.
Silk lanterns are usually made in the afternoon, by skilled craftsmen on the sidewalks of Hoi An. A silk lantern is made by several people through different processes. A bamboo frame is first made according to the shape you desire. Another person will complete that frame with a small string. Another person is designated to cut silk into small parts to stick into the frame. When a quarter of the frame is covered, the artisans have to wait for the glue to dry before covering another quarter of the frame. Thus, the amount of glue used to make a silk lantern is crucial so as not to leave any stains and destroy the appearance of the famous handicraft.
At about 6:30 in the evening, Hoi An becomes a different, beautiful sight with all the new silk lanterns lighting up the streets, creating a mysterious yet vibrant and peaceful atmosphere over the old quarter.
Blick vom Wokenpass auf die Küste Da Nangs
Nachdem unsere Zeit in Hue viel zu schnell verflogen war, machten wir uns mit Thomas Eltern, einem befreundeten Ehepaar und einem weiteren Freund auf nach Da Nang. Obwohl es mittlerweile einen gut ausgebauten Tunnel zwischen Hue und Da Nang gibt, entschieden wir uns für den Wolkenpass, aus 3 Pässen bestehend, der in weitläufigen Serpentinen über den östlichsten Teil der Troung Son-Berge führte. Dies lohnt sich vor allem wegen der herrlichen Aussichten, die sich einem auf dem Weg bieten und da wir Glück hatten und es nicht bewölkt war, konnten wir aus einem wohl klimatisierten Fahrzeug heraus einen weiten Blick über das Land und das Meer genießen.
Elephant Springs
Bevor wir jedoch den Wolkenpass in Angriff nahmen wollten wir uns die Elephant Springs nicht entgehen lassen: Natürlichen Wasserbecken, die sich innerhalb langgezogener Stromschnellen gebildet haben – mittlerweile teilweise künstlich abgetrennt und mit auf Stelzen stehenden Hüttchen versehen, in deren Schatten man sich entspannen konnte. Da wir bisher hauptsächlich davon gehört hatten, wie ruhig und abgelegen es dort sein sollte, waren wir sehr erstaunt, als wir nach einer kurzen Fahrt über eine wenig befahrene, schlecht ausgebaute Buckelpiste an einem frisch ausgehobenen, riesigen, voll besetzten Parkplatz ankamen. Wir hatten schlichtweg nicht beachtet, dass Schulferien und auch noch Sonntag waren.
Wasserbecken der Elephant Springs
Die Becken waren alle randvoll besetzt und jede noch so kleine Lücke wurde genutzt. Das unserer Meinung nach positive war dabei, dass die Gäste dieses Erholungsortes beinahe ausschließlich einheimische waren – der internationale Tourismus ist hier anscheinend noch nicht wirklich angekommen. Schließlich bekamen wir hautnah das zu spüren, was wir bisher nur vom Hörensagen kannten: Viele Vietnamesen scheinen nicht wie wir viel Wert auf Einsamkeit und Ruhe zu legen, sondern das Gewimmel von Menschen zu genießen. Insgesamt wirkte es wie ein riesiges, natürliches, überbelegtes Freibad, was wohl für viele der Anwesenden den Reiz ausmachte – für uns war es eher ein Gefühl der Beengtheit, jedoch trotzdem sehr schön und vor allem (in der Hitze Vietnams) eine willkommene Abkühlung.
Natürliche Rutschen am Wasserfall
Nichts vermag die Stimmung ueber den Graebern der Nguyễn-Koenige besser auszudruecken, als die Verszeile in der Ueberschrift. Ohne Zweifel wurden sie von den Ming-Graebern bei Beijing inspiriert. Aber sie sind auch der Ausdruck vietnamesischer Lebensauffassung. Die Nguyễn konzipierten und begannen den Bau ihrer Graeber zu Lebzeiten. Fertiggestellt wurden sie meist erst nach ihrem Tod. Sie vermitteln nicht nur die Kunst des 19. und 20. Jahrhunderts, sondern sagen auch etwas ueber die Persoenlichkeit ihres Erbauers und zugleich ueber seine historische Bedeutung aus. Insgesamt sieben Grabanlagen der Koenige der Nguyễn-Dynastie (1802-1945) befinden sich nur wenige Kilometer suedlich von Huế. Wegen der grossen Hitze und der teilweise komplizierten Anfahrt haben wir heute aber nur die drei wichtigsten besucht. Die mit Abstand schoenste Anlage ist fuer mich das Grab des vierten Nguyễn-Koenigs Tự Đức (1829-1883).
Tự Đức hat sein Grab bereits 16 Jahre vor seinem Tod erbauen lassen und es als Refugium benutzt, wenn ihn die politischen Ereignisse seiner unruhigen Regierungszeit und persoenliche Noete bedraengten. Der Koenig mit der laengsten Regierungszeit (1847-1883) war klein von Gestalt und litt haeufig unter Krankheiten. Obwohl er mehr als 100 Frauen hatte, bleib er kinderlos. Diese Tatsache fuehrte dazu, dass er nicht nur sein Grab zu Lebzeiten fertigstellen liess, sondern auch den Text auf seiner Gedenkstele selbst verfasste.
Tự Đức war ein Poet, zudem ueberzeugter konfuzianischer Gelehrter und wollte sein Land vor dem Eindringen fremder Ideen bewahren. Dennoch musste er erleben, dass es von den Franzosen nach und nach gewaltsam erobert wurde. Er konnte die Besetzung des Mekong Deltas nicht verhindern und musste in Vertraegen den Verlust bestaetigen. Als Architekt schuf er zwischen 1864 und 1867 sein Grab als Zeugnis fernoestlicher Philosophie und Harmonie. Der Teil, den er zu Lebzeiten benutzte, ist bedeutend groesser als der Raum, den er fuer seinen Tod vorsah. Von einem starken Wall mit vier Toren umgeben, umfasst es eine Miniaturwelt mit Wasser, Huegeln, Flora und Fauna.
Am See Lưu Khiêm im Xung Khiêm-Pavillon pflegte der Koenig Literatur und Dichtung. Auf einer kleinen Insel jagte er Hasen und Voegel. Sein Tee wurde mit dem Tau aus den Bluetenkelchen der Lotosblueten zubereitet. Er umgab sich mit Schoenheit und Harmonie und bat auf seiner Stele das Volk um Verzeihung fuer die Fehler, die er an ihm begangen hatte. In dem Tempel, der heute seine Gedenkstaette ist, residierte er zu Lebzeiten und liess sich Theaterstuecke vorspielen, die bis zu 100 Naechte waehrten. Auch wenn die Dynastie der Nguyễn nach ihm noch mehr als fuenf Jahrzehnte bestand, er war der letzte Koenig der Epoche der Unabhaengigkeit, auch der geistigen Unabhaengigkeit, von Europa.
Viele Gruesse
Cathrin
Cathrin’s Blog: Zwischen Traditionen und Moderne
A native of the tropical regions in Central America, the guava was introduced to South-East Asia around the 17th century. The guava fruit could either be round or pear-shaped, with thin dark green skin that turns yellowish green as the fruit ripens. Depending on the kind, guavas can vary in size ranging from tomato-like sizes, but could grow as large as 13 cm in diameter. With a light and sweet taste, its flesh could be white or deep-pink and contains a variable number of tiny seeds in its center that could be eaten along.
It could be cut up into parts, but others find eating the guava as whole and taking bitefuls from it more satisfying. Some Vietnamese prefer to eat the guava while it is not yet completely ripe (Ổi sống) together with a dip made of fish sauce (Nuoc Mam), chilli, salt and sugar. Sliced guava is also often dipped in a mixture of salt and grounded red chilli pepper. The Mekong Delta's "Ổi Xá Lị" variety is probably the most famous guava in Vietnam.
Along with the country’s natural beauty coupled with the friendliness and hospitality of its people, Vietnam’s cuisine strongly distinguishes itself from the rest of the countries. Known to be very diverse, even from within the country itself, Vietnamese dishes could vary greatly between the North, Central Vietnam and the country’s South. Apart from its diversity, Vietnamese cuisine has a reputation of being flavorful, well-blended, low in fat, yet packed with a wonderful mix and variations of fresh herbs and seasoning which brings out the distinctly tasty character of its every dish.
Regional Variations
Northern Cuisine. Dishes from this part of the country are mostly colorful and marked with a neutral taste. People use seasoning to add flavor according to their own preference, though most popularly used are diluted fish sauce and shrimp paste. Hanoi, where the entirety of Northern Vietnam’s culinary culture converged, is famous for certain dishes such as Pho, Bun thang, Bun cha, Bun oc, Com (green rice flakes of Vong village) and Banh cuon Thanh Tri (steamed rice rolls) among the many. Though each varies in taste, all of these dishes are savory. Belostomatid essence and Vietnamese basil of Lang Village are condiments also known unique only to Hanoi.
Cuisine of Central Vietnam. People from Central Vietnam appear to be more discern diners than those from the North and South. They prefer their dishes to have a more distinct taste to it, stronger flavors, spicier and have distinguishing red and dark brown color characteristics. Here, popular seasonings are “Mam tom chua’ (made from shrimp and green papaya) and different varieties of shrimp pastes. Imperial cuisine is recognized as signature cooking in this region. In fact, travelers who happen to visit Hue are mostly impressed upon experiencing Imperial dishes known served to royal families in the past. Its very spicy nature, the attractive blend of colors and the creative fashion of presenting the dishes into a variation of small portions, reflecting a beautiful portrait of Imperial cuisine, are things travelers never fail to notice and greatly appreciate.
Southern Cuisine. Embodying Chinese, Cambodian and Thai influences, most of the Southern Vietnamese dishes tend to be sweeter and spicier. The diverse cooking style of its local residents reflects these people’s efficient way of cleaning, drying, preserving and storing fishes as well agricultural products to allow consumption for lengthier periods since the Southern regions are deemed primary sources of the country’s agricultural work. Dried salted fishes are among the main ingredients used in their local popular dishes. Rural residents from this region commonly prepare meals from raw ingredients that are easily available on the field such as mudfish grilled on straw and mung bean porridge. Many of Vietnam’s noodle dishes today originated from Southern cuisine such as Bun mam (rice vermicelli served with shrimp paste soup), Hu tieu My Tho and Bun nuoc leo Soc Trang (rice noodle soups).
Ethnic minority cuisines. Having 54 existing ethnic groups in the country at present, Vietnam’s culture itself is truly diversified since each of these groups present their own ethnic culture identity which likewise feature culinary characters that vary from the other. While people from the Central Highlands are known for cooking raw pork mixed with herbs and seasoning, provinces in the Northwest of Vietnam also have their signature dishes such as Pho chua (sour Pho), suckling pig, roast duck, Coong phu cake, grilled sticky rice and sour meat.
Influences on Vietnamese Cuisine
In Asian culture, the five elements known as Earth, Water, Fire, Metal and Wood has great influences on various aspects of their lives as such elements are seen to be instruments of maintaining its balance. Clearly, Vietnamese cuisine is not an exception as it greatly reflects an integration of these five elements into the nutrition, taste and colors of their dishes. The wonderful balance of nutritional elements such as liquid, protein, fat, powder and minerals; the incorporation of the five common colors in the presentation of their dishes: yellow to represent Earth, black to signify Water, red for Fire, white for Metal and green to symbolize Wood; and the skillful blend of the tastes of sweet, salty, bitter, sour and spicy; all characterizes the influence of such belief.
The combination of a variety of fresh herbs and seasonings to enhance the flavor of the dishes reflects how they strongly embrace the Yin and Yang principle, and incorporating the belief in their day to day applications, particularly in cooking. Dishes characterized as cold or cool are accompanied with warm or hot condiments. Sour (yin) harmonizes with spicy (yang). The balance of Yin and Yang is also demonstrated through ingredient selection and the manner of serving the dishes according to the season and weather conditions. In the North, Pho is deemed as a perfect “hot” soup during winter periods, while duck meat, considered a cold dish, is traditionally served with warm ginger fish sauce. All these, center on the balance of Yin and Yang.
Culture and Spirit of Vietnamese cuisine
In Vietnam, the cuisine itself reflects the culture and spirit of its people. Their culinary culture is an important aspect for individuals to please each other during dining, a time which is also considered a wonderful opportunity for them to communicate. How individuals behave during public dining, and even family members while having meals at home, is greatly motivated by their tradition. Respect, self-esteem and caution are observed every time they dine. Families dining together are also a strong tradition in the country as they look at it as an occasion for family members to spend time together, relax and share their thoughts and feelings. The dining table is where everyone often gathers to enjoy their meals. The younger ones are expected to invite the elders and allow them to have the first try of the dishes. Such demonstration of respect shows the loving spirit of Vietnamese families and the positive aspects of its culture in entirety. In fact, many of the common Vietnamese proverbs are centered on the culinary behavior of its people. “When you eat, check the pots and pans; when you sit, check the direction” and “When eating chew well, think before speaking” are among such proverbs.
Inviting others to dine in their homes is a reflection of their social culture. Families or individuals hosting a party often prepare plenty of special dishes to express their sincerity and warm welcome to the guests. Though the food they prepare is intended to entertain the guests, the whole concept mirrors the friendliness and hospitality of the Vietnamese.
Drinking tea has always been a habit and tradition for Vietnamese folks. People have planted tea for over three thousand years and the beverage is considered a strong aspect of its culture. The country’s tropical climate and soil conditions make it very suitable to its cultivation. Since the beginning of the 20th century, Vietnam had engaged in the commercial production of tea. For such, Vietnam’s tea products have made a strong presence around the world and have been exported to many different countries. But with competition now tightening with other tea-producing countries, Vietnam's tea sector recognized the necessity on improving its product's quality, hygiene and safety instead rather than the productivity. To make such possible, investing in modern processing technology is considered alongside traditional processing techniques. Stricter controls should also be imposed to better ensure the safety of their produce.
Viet Nam Tea Association said they would focus on expanding cultivation areas, as the plantations harvested at present were below the processing capacity. Vietnam is the world’s 5th largest exporter of tea, and first in its production in ASEAN. Last year, Vietnam exported 130,000 tons of tea. In the first seven months of this year, it exported 65,000 tons. Approximately 6 million Vietnamese earn their livelihood from tea through the 445 businesses involved in its processing and export. Farmers who grow tea can earn about VND19.5 million (US$1,000) per hectare.
But its quality, by far, is keeping Vietnam’s tea industry from reaching global markets’ standards. Among the recognized factors that stall its chances to acquiring world-class quality include the lack of world trademark as 99% of the export was raw materials. Another problem is the uneven productivity where in some cases farmers harvested 6 tons per hectare, while gathering only 1-2 tons per hectare on other plantations. The industry recognizes the lack of investments into improved cultivation practices as well. Despite the large number of enterprises involved in the trade, not many have invested enough in machinery and assembly lines. With the quality not as competitive, Vietnamese tea are priced low.
The lack of cooperation between farmers, enterprises and the Government is another major roadblock in promoting improvements in the industry. The association recommends that localities cease issuing license to new tea factories until the production situation in existing factories had been assessed. When a factory fails to meet production requirements, they would have to comply with the standards or be shut down. A suggestion on planting new tea varieties with higher productivity as a move to increase the country's tea specialty is also proposed.
In the International tea conference in Hanoi, the chairman of the Pakistani Tea Association expressed its willingness to work together with Vietnam to improve its tea quality. Controlling the use of pesticides and apply international criteria in all phases of tea production was strongly recommended. Another issue that was brought up is on improving the pricing. Representatives of 20 other countries come to the same conference, including Malaysia, Pakistan, India and the United Kingdom. Many believe that the tea industry in Vietnam has excellent potential and prospects for future growth. The biggest challenge for now is to implement its plans in promoting better quality on its products. With proper government aid along with the assistance from willing partner countries, the challenges to its tea industry could be easily overcome. That would then bring Vietnam’s tea the recognition it deserves.
In Vietnamese cuisine, unique taste and specialties of dishes depend upon the well-blended of various kinds of traditional condiments. A secret ingredient surprises many professional cookers, talented chefs and food lover, an essential to create a unique taste for Vietnamese savory dishes is “Nước mắm” (Vietnamese fish sauce). The saltiness, but not pure salty, blend on the back-base sweetness scores the winning of fish sauce.
Nước mắm is a very basic and common condiment uses across Vietnam. The way Nước mắm is added, balanced in dishes, though, might different from regions but in general, it is a must have condiment in cooking.
Famous brands and history of Nước mắm
“Nước mắm Phú Quốc” and “Nước mắm Phan Thiết” are the most famous commercial brands of fish sauce trading on domestic and international markets. The sea surrounding Phu Quoc islands has a huge economic potential of anchovies. It creates a long history of Nước mắm Phú Quốc dating back to 200 years ago when islanders made and trade Nước mắm to Laos and Cambodia at the end of 19th century. Today, “Dương Ðông” and “An Thới” are two locations contribute a significant output to Nước mắm Phú Quốc production.
“Nước mắm Phan Thiết” originates in Phan Thiet, a local coastal area in Central of Vietnam with an approximate of 57 kilometers long of coastline. Local people are well-known with many traditional villages of making Nuoc mam. Like Phu Quoc, Phan Thiet has plentiful supply of anchovies, a primary ferment ingredient of fish sauce. Nước mắm Phan Thiết has presented on the market since 1809 and it has become a favorite and famous brand. Thanh Hải, Phú Hài and Hàm Tiến – Mũi Né are three famous areas among villages making Nước mắm.
How “Nước mắm” is made
Nước mắm is a liquid condiment derived from fish that are ferment. The most common fish to make Nước mắm, in Vietnam, is anchovies. This explains a large number of traditional and famous villages in making Nước mắm locate in coastal areas or islands to utilize a plenty of fresh fish supply. The distinctive type of anchovies and the quality of fish are the key elements in having the best quality and flavorful fish sauce. July to December lunar calendar, particularly in August, is the best season during the year for fishing anchovies. Anchovies, right at the fishing boat, are washed in sea water and taken out impurities. Fish, then, is mixed with unrefined salt and store in the hold. The ratio of fish and salt, usually, is 3:1- three parts of fish mix with one part of unrefined salt. This method is traditionally called “chượp” to keep fish fresh; avoid the disintegration of fish meat to yield the highest degree of protein for fish sauce and fantastic smell. When the fishing boat returns to the mainland, salted fishes are put into a huge wooden barrel to keep for months.
A wooden barrel is made from soft wood because each wooden piece is arranged to form a huge barrel and big ropes are used to keep them stay closed and tied together without any tiny slot. Soft wood, thus, forms a better barrel than other types of wood. A wooden barrel has cylindrical shape with 1,5 to 3 meters in diameter; 2 to 2,5 meters in height; 2,5 to 8 cubic meters in capacity. Each barrel can store 7 to 13 tons of fish. When a barrel is filled-up with salted fishes, one layer of fish will be put on top with another layer of salt, then, stay on top of that is a bamboo grid and a layer of stone to fasten and weight fishes down. Two to four days later, the enzymes in fish gut hydrolyze internal organs and create some liquid. This very first liquid has fishy smell and uneatable, so it is filtered out via a small tap on the wall of barrel. When all liquid are out, the main hydrolysis process begins. It takes 8 to 18 months for certain bacteria finish hydrolysis of fish meat and discharge transparent, light yellow or reddy brown liquid – known as perfect Nước mắm, no fishy but having a distinct aromatic smell.
This first, perfect liquid has the highest degree of protein called “nước mắm nhĩ” which is purely created from the hydrolysis of fish meat. After filtering out the first product, water can be filled again into the barrel for the second derivation, though, not having a high degree of protein as the first one. The degree of protein is reduced over each production cycle.
Nước mắm, then, is bottled for retailing or packed in plastic container for wholesales distribution. A fundamental difference between “Nước mắm Phú Quốc” and “Nước mắm Phan Thiết” is the color. Nước mắm Phú Quốc has a natural reddy brown color without adding any artificial color. This is a result of fresh fish mixing method and a long period of ferment up to 12 months in wooden barrels. Nước mắm Phan Thiết has a yellow color of straw with a strong scent and bold sweetness, a result of high degree of protein. This is a part of geographic advantages of Phan Thiet, a place with high average temperature, low humidity, full of sunshine and wind which cause an impact on the ferment mechanism of fish.
Nước mắm and Nước mắm chấm
Nước mắm is seasoned itself as raw fish sauce or mixed with other ingredients to have “Nước mắm chấm” (dipping sauce) to go along with various dishes. Raw nước mắm is a well-known condiment in cooking Vietnamese savory dishes in lieu of salt. It creates a unique taste and flavor, a well-blended of saltiness and sweetness of fish meat that could not find in any other salty condiments.
Nước mắm chấm or mixed fish sauce is a common name known as Vietnamese dipping sauce which serves as a condiment for many savory dishes. Nước mắm chấm is made from raw fish sauce, basically, mixed with sugar, lemon juice, chili pepper and water. However, Nước mắm chấm varies from regions and type of dishes. In the North of Vietnam, it’s called Nước mắm pha which is mixed with broth rather than water. In the Central, people prefer a thick Nước mắm chấm which is mixed with the same proportion of raw fish sauce, sugar, lemon juice but less water. Down to the South of Vietnam, people tend to mix fish sauce with coconut juice instead of water and Nước mắm chấm is diluted and sweet.
Each type of savory dishes has different kind of Nước mắm chấm. For wrap and roll dishes such as Chả giò (Vietnamese fried egg roll); Gỏi cuốn (Vietnamese spring roll); Bánh xèo (Vietnamese pan-fried crepe) or rice dishes like Cơm tấm (Vietnamese broken rice) and vermicelli dishes such as Bún thịt nướng, Bún chả giò, Nước mắm chấm is mixed with one part of raw fish sauce, ¾ part of water and ¼ part of sugar, minced garlic and chili pepper. It tends to be sweet and diluted. Sometimes, pickled julienne daikon and carrot are added to enhance the presentation and give some crunch. For special dishes of Hue such as Bánh bèo, bánh bột lọc…, Nước mắm chấm is only mixed with water, sugar and a few drop of lemon juice. It is lightly sweet and not sour. Chili pepper is chopped and put a side instead of mixing in fish sauce.
Apparently, no one denies that what make a dish more impressive and traditional depend upon a part of delicious dipping sauce. It not only enhances bold taste, richness of the dish but it reflects a true culinary culture of a perfect combination among ingredients and exposes the art of cooking.
Nước mắm (Vietnamese fish sauce), true, is a secret weapon of Vietnamese cuisine to create unique flavor and deliver surprise to people. With regards to this simple but special condiment, Nước mắm is well known as soul of Vietnamese cuisine.
Though widely grown in the country’s Southern provinces, mangoes are most abundant between March to May, known as Vietnam’s mango season. The country grows many different varieties of this fruit, of which the Cat mango (Ben Cat mango), Tuong mango (elephant mango) and Xiem mango (Siamese mango) are the most popular. Each variety has a unique flavour, smell and taste, but all are generally sweet and tasty. In fact, the mango is branded as one of the best-tasting fruits ever. When young, the fruit could be very green and gradually turns yellow, and when at its brightest yellow, indicates its ripeness. With its succulent sweetness and invigorating smell, all the fruits’ flavour is contained in its smooth-textured flesh on both cheeks hugging a single flat and oblong pit that is usually fibrous or hairy on the surface.
To eat: Peel the fruit and carve the flesh lengthwise on both sides, keeping the knife as close as possible to the seed in the centre. As others eliminate the seeds, many still opt to serve it along with the delectable fleshy sliced sides. Served as an appetizer, the mango is best eaten fresh right after sliced in parts. They are also considered part of certain dishes, yet, using it as an ingredient for desserts is common. Mango juice and the dessert "Mango and Sticky (glutinous) Rice" are popular desserts in Viet Nam that incorporates this delicious fruit in its recipes.
For years, Bánh Cuốn (Vietnamese steamed rice rolls) has never stop to demonstrate its long-lasting perfect comfort food to food lovers. When people need something light, delicate yet flavorful, Bánh Cuốn is an inescapable dish quickly passes voting to be named in the menu. For those are familiar with Bánh Cuốn, no savory substitute is likely. For those have not yet ever try the dish, once taste it, people soon fall in love with very light but flavorful and earthy rolls. The origin and name of Bánh Cuốn The origin of Bánh Cuốn is traced back from Northern Vietnam. No matter the exact date and time Bánh Cuốn was initially made, people seem not to deny that Bánh Cuốn has been made for years and served over and over. Bánh Cuốn is classified under wrap and roll dishes in Vietnamese cuisine as a dedication to its nature and the name itself. The dish features a thin and delicate steamed rice sheet fills with a variety of filling then rolls it up. In English words, “Banh” is pastry presents in both sweet and savory Vietnamese recipes. “Cuon” means the process to roll a pastry sheet with or without stuffing. Undoubtedly, Bánh Cuốn is named after its process in making a tasty roll. How to make Bánh Cuốn Visibly, a roll of Bánh Cuốn is finished from two main ingredients, steamed rice sheets and fillings. Rice sheets are made from the mixed batter of rice flours, tapioca starch and sometimes potato starch. Traditionally, makers grind white rice to have fresh rice flour in mixing with other ingredients. Only a small batch of rice is grinded each time to make enough rolls for consuming in a day. That tradition purposes no leftover rice flour is being used for the next batch to keep every roll is freshly steamed. While packed rice flour is now available at almost the markets, many questions raise regarding the hidden reason people still proceed with time consuming process. A simple yet surprising answer is a secret to make an extremely thin, delicate and wide rice sheet without breaking. If using old-day flour, sometimes, it does smell strong flour-like and it really tastes differently. The traditional method to steam rice sheet is using a steamer, a kind of fabric covered pot put on boiling water. Steams release from the underneath boiling water will quickly cook rice flour, keep the sheet moist and workable. A ladleful of batter, mix from rice flour and tapioca starch with water, is poured and evenly spread out in a very thin layer on a cloth stretches across and places on top of the pot. In less than a minute with the cover of a pot, a rice sheet should be done. It now turns out a transparent rice paper. Unlike other pastries, a delicate rice paper is lifted off the steamer by a flat and flexible bamboo stick and placed on a large tray. This is a tricky and not an easy technique for those who have not ever touched the steamer. A fabulous thinly cooked rice sheet is now ready for filling and rolling. Filling comes with various recipes depend upon where you eat Bánh Cuốn. A delicious filling commonly taste across the country is ground pork mixes with finely chopped jicama, minced onion and shallot and dry fungus. All ingredients are well-incorporated and seasoning to taste with a few spoonfuls of fish sauce and a dash of ground pepper. The mixture, then, stir fry to throughly cook. A couple tablespoons of filling are placed on a hot rice sheet which is then fold up and roll. The transparency of a look-like rice paper exposes the stuffing inside signals an earthy and delicious roll is ready to serve. Today, Vietnamese families across Vietnam and in the country outside Vietnam use non-stick pan to make Bánh Cuốn. The recipe remains the same with traditional one, the rice sheet won’t be as thin as steaming on the cloth covered pot but the result will still be satisfactory. Practically, this method is uniquely home-made and easy to use. It becomes very popular since many families now can make Bánh Cuốn at home and at any time they desire for a comfort roll. Versions of Bánh Cuốn Bánh Cuốn is made in different size and shape, each mirrors the culture and spirit of different regions through its own recipes and distinctive flavor. In the North of Vietnam, a very famous southern district in Hanoi named Thanh Tri is a place for plain rice sheets. Without any filling, Bánh Cuốn Thanh Tri is well-known with its delicate, flavorful rice papers, a proud of local makers. Plain rice sheet is simply served with sliced “Cha lua”, fry shallots and “Nuoc mam cham” (mixed fish sauce). In the Central of Vietnam, another roll of Bánh Cuốn called Banh uot tom chay (steamed rice rolls with dry ground shrimp). The filling makes from shrimp rather than ground pork. Shrimps are thoroughly cooked, dry and finely ground. Then, ground shrimp, or it is called shrimp powder is roll with a rice sheet. Sometimes, makers do not roll ground shrimp with a rice sheet but they sprinkle over the top of plain Bánh Cuốn. It tastes really light and earthy. In the South of Vietnam, a popular roll is Bánh Cuốn with ground pork stuffing. It serves with Cha lua, bean sprouts, julienne Vietnamese basil and cucumber, fry shallots and Nuoc mam cham (mixed fish sauce). People often find a rice sheet is roll or place on the top with green onion as another derivation of Bánh Cuốn Thanh Tri. This is available in the market while Bánh Cuốn with filling is ordered in many restaurants. How to serve Bánh Cuốn Even though a comfort roll comes with various version of filling to couple with local taste and culinary culture, Bánh Cuốn always serve hot with Nuoc mam cham (fish sauce). In many restaurants, hot rolls will be made right after order. Fellow diners have a chance to lively observe how Bánh Cuốn is made before dining. Like other dishes in Vietnamese cuisine, Nuoc mam cham is a well-blend condiment to enhance flavor and make a dish tastier. Basically, fish sauce is mixed with water, sugar and lemon juice. It needs to be sweet and sour. At some local restaurants, ground chili pepper is added for a little hot or it is put in a separate bowl for desired taste. Specially, in Hanoi, a bit of Belostomatid essence (use a head of a toothpick dip into the essence) is added to Nuoc mam cham as a traditional and distinctive flavor of the origin place of Bánh Cuốn. As a tradition, Bánh Cuốn is commonly served as a breakfast. Today, it becomes a comfort food to be served all day long. It could be a light lunch in a hurry to catch up office work or a small dinner for a good time to chat with friends. In family, Bánh Cuốn is a perfect dish to gather members around, from preparation to making the rolls, and share the join with family. Whatever Bánh Cuốn is steamed with traditional method or modern non-stick pan, a small or large savory roll with or without a variety of fillings, Bánh Cuốn is a perfect lasting favorite throughout Vietnam and of many visitors. Bánh Cuốn is an earthy roll which stuff all the culinary culture and spirit of different regions across the country. That is a comfort roll yet symbolizes diversity and flavor on its delicate.
It is quite unusual smell makes the Durian one of the most unique fruits to ever exist. Such odour often yield mixed reactions from different people ranging from deep appreciation to pure disgust. Six times larger than the cantaloupe, its green thick, rough, thorn-covered husk looks similar to the jackfruit but its thorns are more projected and definitely sharper. A knife is needed to cut through the outer shell while extra caution is required to break open the rest of the husk to avoid hurting one’s hand from its thorns. Once open, it is noticeable how the inside is divided into cells holding a few of the cream-colored custard-like flesh in every compartment. It is from such rich flesh where the strong smell, which others find specially tempting, while others label as unpleasantly nauseous and offensive, comes from. Even with its shell intact, the odour remains overpowering and penetrating and could be detected from a distance.
Once touched or eaten, the smell stays on one’s breath for hours. For some reason, the Vietnamese calls the fruit Sầu Riêng (one's own sorrows). Durian is indeed an exquisite fruit, and is pretty expensive. But for the many who finds the fruit’s qualities truly fascinating, it’s very much worth the money and experience.
Die nur von wenigen Touristen besuchte Chùa Trăm Gian, auch bekannt als Chùa Quảng Nghiêm oder Chùa Tiên Lữ, liegt auf einem 50 Meter hohen Huegel im Dorf Tiên Lữ. Gemeinde Tiên Phương im Distrikt Chương Mỹ, der heute zum Grossraum Hanoi gehoert (frueher Provinz Hà Tây) etwa 35 Kilometer vom Zentrum der Hauptstadt entfernt. Die Fahrt auf schmalen Strassen und Deichkronen gibt einen guten Eindruck vom laendlichen Leben in der Region. Den Besuch der Pagode kann man sehr gut verbinden mit einer Besichtigung der ganz in der Nahe liegenden wesentlich bekannteren Pagoden Thầy und Tây Phương.
Mit ihrem Tempelgarten, in dem kleine Stupas mit sterblichen Ueberresten von Moenchen stehen, und ihren weit ueber 100 Jahre alten Baeumen strahlt die Chùa Trăm Gian eine angenehme Ruhe aus. Sie wurde im Jahre 1185 gegruendet und besteht heute aus drei Gebaeudegruppen mit insgesamt 104 Raeumen (daher der heutige Name). Der 1693 erbaute zweistoeckige Glockenturm gehoert zu den aeltesten Bauten seiner Art in Vietnam. Die unter dem Dach haengende Kupferglocke wurde im Jahre 1794 gegossen. Sie ist 1,40 Meter hoch und hat einen Durchmesser von 60 Zentimetern.
Zum wertvollsten Besitz der Pagode gehoeren 153 Buddha-Statuen, die meisten aus Holz. Besonders verehrt werden die Statuen des Generals Đặng Tiến Đông, der 1789 Thăng Long (Hanoi) von den Chinesen befreite und die Statue des weiblichen Bodhisattva Quan Thế Âm Bồ Tát (auch Quan Âm), der vietnamesischen Variante der Goettin der Barmherzigkeit.
Ueber die Geschichte der Pagode berichtet eine Legende:
Waehrend der Trần-Dynastie (1226-1400) traeumte eine Frau aus dem Dorf Bối Khê von der Geburt eines Budhas. Anschliessend wurde sie schwanger und brachte einen Sohn zur Welt. Nach dem Tod seiner Eltern verliess der Junge neun Jahre spaeter sein Heimatdorf und begann, in der Pagode Đại Bi den Buddhismus zu studieren. Im Alter von 15 Jahren besuchte er Tiên Lữ, verliebte sich in die Schoenheit der Landschaft und bat die Moenche der Pagode, ihn weiter zu unterrichten. Als er sein Studium nach 10 Jahren abgeschlossen hatte, erwarb er sich sehr schnell der Ruf eines grossen Gelehrten. Der Trần-Koenig holte ihn darauf in die Hauptstadt und gab ihm den ehrwuerdigen Namen Đức Minh.
Nach dem Tod des Abtes der Pagode von Tiên Lữ kehrte er dorthin zurueck und baute einen neuen Tempal. Im Alter von 95 Jahren schloss er sich in seiner Kammer ein, nahm Abschied von seinen Juengern und befreite seine Seele. 100 Tage spaeter oeffneten die Juenger die Kammer und bestatten seine Ueberreste in einer Stupa. Seitdem wird der Ehrwuerdige Đức Minh nach seinem Geburtsort als der Heilige von Bối verehrt.
Zu Ehren von Đức Minh findet jedes Jahr vom 4. bis zum 6. Tag des ersten Mondmonats ein Pagodenfest statt. Hoehepunkte des Festes sind neben der Prozession ein vegetarischer Kochwettbewerb und diverse volkstuemliche Spiele wie Schach mit lebenden Figuren, Ringen und Auffuehrungen des Wasserpuppentheaters.
Viele Gruesse
Cathrin
Cathrin’s Blog: Zwischen Traditionen und Moderne
Ein sehr schoenes Wochenende liegt hinter uns. Nachdem wir am Freitag am Nachmittag mit Bus und Faehre direkt auf die Insel Cát Bà gefahren sind, erwartete mich jedoch zunaechst ein kleiner Schock. Irgendein wichtiger Mensch, der scheinbar eine Menge zu sagen hat, ist auf die bloedsinnge Idee gekommen, alle Ausflugsboote weiss anstreichen zu lassen. Die meisten sind jetzt komplett weiss, andere nur zum Teil weiss lackiert. Es ist sicher auch eine Sache der Gewoehnung, ich finde aber, in beiden Faellen sieht es nicht besonders schoen aus. Irgendwie geht damit auch die Romantik einer Bootstour komplett verloren. Nur ganz vereinzelt waren noch Boote mit dem alten braunen Anstrich unterwegs.
Gestern liessen wir uns gleich nach dem Fruehstueck zum nahe gelegenen schwimmenden Dorf uebersetzen. Dort kann man Kayaks ausleihen. Im zur Ausleihstation gehoerenden Shop wird alles verkauft, was zu einem kleinen oder groesseren Picknick auf einer der unbewohnten Inseln noetig ist. Wer etwas vergessen hat, kann sich auch bei den fliegenden Haendlern, die ueberall in Booten unterwegs sind, oder bei den Fischern verpflegen.
Der Vorteil einer individuellen Tour besteht vor allem darin, dass man den Touristenmassen mehr oder weniger aus dem Weg gehen kann. Kleine idyllische Straende oder romantische Hoehlendurchfahrten sind eben nur mit einem kleinen Boot zu erreichen. Allerdings war Lan am Anfang eine gewisse Verunsicherung deutlich anzumerken. Sie ist keine besonders gute Schwimmerin und hat zum ersten Mal in ihrem Leben in einem Kajak gesessen. Es dauerte eine ganze Weile, bis sie sich einigermassen sicher fuehlte. Misaki dagegen war ganz in ihrem Element, ist sie doch zu Hause oft mit Kayak oder Surfbrett auf dem Scharmuetzelsee unterwegs.
Auf diese Art bekommt man natuerlich auch in acht Stunden nur einen kleinen Teil der riesigen Bucht zu sehen. Wir liessen es auch ziemlich ruhig angehen, denn schliesslich wollten wir keinen Rekord im Wasserwandern aufstellen. Auch Muskelkater in den Armen war nicht eingeplant. So machten wir dann auch oefter mal eine laengere Pause. Obwohl die Sonne nur selten rauskam, war es fuer Misaki und mich nicht zu kalt zum Schwimmen. Lan war aber nicht zu bewegen, mit ins Wasser zu kommen. Lạnh quá (sehr kalt) war alles, was sie dazu zu sagen hatte. So vergingen die vielen Stunden, die wir am oder auf dem Wasser verbrachten, wie im Fluge.
Heute frueh entschlossen wir uns dann kurzfristig, nicht direkt nach Hanoi zurueckzufahren. Um noch ein bischen mehr von der maerchenhaften Landschaft zu sehen, fuhren wir mit einem Touristenboot, nun endlich auch bei Sonnenschein in vier Stunden nach Bãi Cháy (Halong-Stadt) und dann von dort nach dem Mittagessen mit einem Minibus nach Hause.
Viele Gruesse
Cathrin
Cathrin’s Blog: Zwischen Traditionen und Moderne
Chùa Pitu Khôsa Răngsey (vietnamesisch: Chùa Viễn Quang) wurde im Jahre 1948 in der Stadt Cần Thơ von Bauern der Minderheit der Khmer errichtet. Damals befanden sich auf dem Gelaende nur wenige Gebaeude mit Strohdaechern. Waehrend des Befreiungskampfes gegen die Franzosen und vor allem waehrend des Krieges gegen die Amerikaner wurde die Pagode zu einem Zufluchtsort von mehreren Hundert jungen Maennern aus Saigon und dem gesamten Delta, um der Einberufung in die Saigoner Marionettenarmee zu entgehen. Gleichzeitig entwickelte sie sich zu einem Stuetzpunkt der Nationalen Befreiungsfront. Waehrend der Tết-Offensive 1968 wurde die Pagode bei einem Hubschrauberangriff der Amerikaner durch Raketen fast komplett zerstoert. Der damalige Vorsteher der Pagode Lâm Navany musste fliehen und wurde 1970 erschossen, als er versuchte, nach Kambodscha zu entkommen.
Nach der Befreiung lief der Wiederaufbau zunaechst nur schleppend an. Erst ab 1996, als Lý Hùng zum Abt ernannt wurde, kam es zu umfangreichen Renovierungs- und Restaurierungsarbeiten. Lý Hùng, der seine Ausbildung in jungen Jahren in der Schule der Pagode erhielt, ist Mitglied des Zentralrates der Buddhistischen Kirche Vietnams.
Nach nun mehr vierjaehriger Bauzeit wurde am vergangenen Sonnabend feierlich der neue Haupttempel der Pagode eingeweiht. Das dreistoekige Gebaeude ist 50 Meter hoch und besitzt eine Gesamtflaeche von 800qm. Die Baukosten von 12 Milliarden VNĐ (rund 45.000 Euro) wurden komplett von Buddhisten aus dem In- und Ausland aufgebracht.
Im Erdgeschoss befindet sich die Haupthalle der Pagode, in der auch die Kinder der Khmer aus der Umgebung in der kambodschanischen Sprache unterrichtet werden. In der zweiten Etage werden die Zeremonien abgehalten, die dritte dient der Meditation. Die reichhaltigen Verzierungen an den Saeulen sind im Stil von Angkor gehalten. Die 12 Holzfenster wurden von bekannten Kuenstlern mit Reliefs gestaltet, die buddhistische Legenden darstellen. Im Obergeschoss sind 16 Gemaelde zu sehen, die das Leben Buddhas von seiner Geburt bis zu seinem Eintritt in das Nirwana darstellen.
In der Pagode leben derzeit 45 Moenche und Novizen, die den Theravada-Buddhismus praktizieren und studieren sowie soziale Projekte fuer arme Familien im Mekong Delta unterstuetzen. Es ist vorgesehen, die Anzahl der Moenche und Studenten in der naechsten Zeit auf etwa 100 zu erhoehen.
Viele Gruesse
Cathrin
Cathrin’s Blog: Zwischen Traditionen und Moderne
